Baja wa Winemaker Wowona Mtima

Momwe munthu amakhalira ku Valle de Guadalupe akukwaniritsa zochitika za vinyo.

Malo osungirako malo, omwe nthawi zambiri amawoneka kuti ndi abwino, amasakanikirana ndi nyumba zazing'ono zamagalimoto ndi mapaki oyendetsa galimoto pamene mukuyenda pansi pa msewu wa 1 ku Baja, Mexico.

Mbali imodzi ya kuyendetsa ndikumakumbukira zochitika kuchokera ku Dead Walk , ndi graffiti amamanga nyumba paliponse ndi nary moyo kuzungulira. Ndipo mbali ina ya galimotoyo imadutsa ndi matumba a chilengedwe omwe sichinachitike ndi makampani. Kuchokera ku Tijuana kupita ku Ensenada, midzi ing'onoing'ono ing'onoing'ono yomwe ilipo pakati pano ikufalikira ndipo yasiyidwa yokha ndi chiwombankhanga komanso chiwonongeko cha nyumbayo mu 2008.

Pueblos izi zikuwoneka mofanana ndi zomwe zinachitikira zaka 30 mpaka 40 zapitazo ndipo zakhala zodabwitsa kukhala malo osayembekezeka kwa azakhaliki kuti azipita ku zochitika za m'madzi ndi maphunziro a nyengo.

Mu 2012, malo a Cancun-akuluakulu adamangidwa kumadera akum'mawa kwa Baja ku Cabo Pulmo. Koma zilolezo zomangamanga zinathetsedwa chifukwa cha chikhumbo cha mderalo choteteza kanyanja konyanja kokha. Pambuyo pa kuphulika kwa chitukuko, mabungwe omwe siabungwe a NGOs adakonza njira zowonetsera ndalama kuti athe kulandira ndalama zambiri, malonda a nsomba anayamba kulamulidwa, ndipo Baja Peninsula inakhalanso malo abwino.

Kuthamanga kwa 2014. Wall Street Journal imatulutsa nkhani yonena za kuphulika kwa vinyo ku Baja. Alendo ayamba kubwerera kumadera kamodzi, nthawi ino, kuti ayese dzanja lawo kukula. Komabe, ndi anthu omwe akutsogolera masewerawa komanso moyenera; iwo adasokoneza mavuto a zachuma ndipo adayesetsa kugwiritsa ntchito chuma cha nthaka kwa mibadwo yonse.

Ambiri amabwera ku Baja kuti azungulira ndi kusangalala ndi nsomba zatsopano. Sitimayo ya Ensenda ikuyendetsa mlendo wake mpaka kumtima wa tawuni. Mzindawu uli ngati Hussong, malo obadwira a Margarita, ndi La Guerrerense, tostada galimoto Anthony Bourdain adadziwika kuti ndi malo abwino kwambiri padziko lonse kuti adye.

Ngakhale ndi malo oterewa oyendetsa komanso oyendayenda, vinyo wotchedwa Valle de Guadalupe ndiwo amachititsa kuti ntchito zowonongeka zibwezeretsedwe.

Minda ya mpesa ku Valle de Guadalupe inayamba kumayambiriro kwa zaka za m'ma 1520 ndipo dera limeneli limaonedwa ngati dziko lakale kwambiri la vinyo ku Mexico. Nyengo ndi yabwino kwa kukula kwa mphesa ndi youma, nyengo yozizira ndi Pacific Ocean pafupi. Olima m'derali adayamba kulemekeza dzikolo m'ma 1970, koma posakhalitsa anthu adazindikira ndipo Baja adakhala Napa Valley ya Mexico. Chimodzi mwa zomwe zimapangitsa derali kukhala lopambana ndilo kuti alimi akhoza kuphatikiza mitundu yosiyanasiyana ya vinyo ndipo samadziwika chifukwa chokolola mphesa ina iliyonse. Kupanga m'chigwachi ndi chatsopano, kotero pali malo osewera ndi kukhazikitsa chidziwitso.

Hugo D'Acosta ndi bambo wa vinyo ku Baja. Iye anabadwira mumzinda wa Mexico City, anaphunzira maphunziro a sayansi ku France, ndipo adalemba La Escualita yopanda phindu, yomwe inali yosungiramo mwayi wofuna winemakers, pamene adabwerera ku Mexico. Katswiri wa sayansi ya ku Swiss, Thomas Egli, tsopano akuthamanga sukuluyi. Chaka chilichonse amakhala ndi ophunzira ochepa omwe akufuna kuphunzira mwambo umenewu. Nyumbayi, yomangidwa ndi mchimwene wa Hugo Alejandro, imapangidwa kuchokera ku zipangizo zopanda pake ndipo mbali yaikulu ya chiphunzitsochi ndi yowonjezera.

La Escualita yadzikhazikitsa yokha ngati malo osatha kwa anthu ammudzi akuyang'ana kuti alowe musewera wa vinyo.

Chimodzi mwa mapuloteni a D'Acosta ndi Pau Pijoan, yemwe ali ndi Vinos Pijoan, wosungiramo zakudya m'madera. Pau, wodwala zakale wam'chipatala, yemwe adagwira ntchito pantchito yapamwamba, adayamba kupambana kuti adziwone ngati ali ndi zida zenizeni. Iye mwamsanga anakhala gawo la "mibadwo yatsopano" ya vintners ndipo tsopano ali ndi bizinesi yopambana ndi yotchuka. Ngati mumalankhulana ndi wina aliyense m'dera lanu, amadziwa kuti Pau ndi ndani chifukwa cha mzere wake ndi D'Acosta komanso chifukwa chakuti watha kupanga vina lake lachizindikiro.

Mukafika kochepa (maekala asanu) koma munda wamphesa mumapatsidwa moni ndi agalu ambiri opulumutsidwa. Pau, mkazi wake Lenora, ndi mwana wake Paula ndi amene akuyang'anira. Zili bwino kuti amatsanulira mitima yawo ndi moyo wawo mu bizinesi.

Amakupatsani moni mwachikondi ndipo amafunitsitsa kugawana nawo alendo awo.

Vinos Pijoan ndi imodzi mwa minda yambiri yomwe imapanga mbeu. Kupatulapo zitsanzo za sulfites (chomera cha mphesa), sagwiritsira ntchito tizilombo toyambitsa matenda kapena mankhwala owopsa. Chilankhulo cha Pijoan ndi "Wine Wowona Mtima", zomwe zikhoza kuwonetsedwa momwe mphesa zimakololedwa. Kuchokera ku composting ndi kuweta njuchi ku munda wamunda wolima, Pijoans amapanga chilengedwe m'munda wamphesa ndipo amadalira zachilengedwe kuti aziwathandiza kupanga. Ayika zinyama m'mitengo yawo monga chida chogwiritsira ntchito makoswe ndipo agalu amathandizira kuti asatengere zolengedwa zosavomerezeka. Amakhalanso ndi njuchi ziwiri ndikugulitsa uchi wamba umene wapangidwa kuchokera kwa iwo.

Syrah, Merlot, Grenache, ndi Cabernet ndi zitsanzo za mphesa zomwe Pijoans zimalima. Ambiri mwa mainawa amatchulidwa ndi amayi omwe adakhudzidwa kwambiri ndi moyo wa Pau ndipo "amayesera kufanana ndi khalidwe ndi moyo wa munthu aliyense m'banja mwawo monga vinyo."

Pau amagwira ntchito zambiri zomwe zimagwira ntchito kwa mwana wake wamkazi Paula kuti azisamalira dzikoli mosamala. Katswiri wa zakumwa za m'nyanja ndi malonda, n'zosadabwitsa kuti mbiri ya Paula mu sayansi imamukonda kwambiri dzikoli. Makolo ake atagula malondawo, adabwera kuti athandize kulimbana nawo ndipo mundawo unakhala pulojekiti yake. Amagwira ntchito limodzi ndi zomera zomwe zimachokera kumapiri ndipo amadziwa bwino kulimbana ndi mitundu yosafunikira popanda kugwiritsa ntchito mankhwala.

Popeza mvula imakhala yosawerengeka mu Valley, winemakers ayenera kuyesedwa kwambiri pogwiritsa ntchito madzi ndipo nthawi zambiri amavutika ndi mbewu zawo. Chifukwa cha nkhaniyi, Pijoans amangokhala ndi zochepa zokwana 2500, kuwalola kuti azigwira ntchito mosamala ndikukula zomwe zikufunikira. Amathandizanso ammudzi wawo, kugula mphesa zawo zonse kuchokera ku minda ya mpesa. Pambuyo pa kupambana kwa mpikisano, Pijoans amawona antchito awo onse a banja, ndipo aliyense amachita mbali yofunikira mu bizinesi.

Pijoans akufuna kupanga mavinyo omwe amasonyeza khalidwe la dzikolo ndi banja lawo ndizomene zimawapangitsa kukhala apadera. Iwo amadziwa kuti masewera a nthawi yaitali ndi olemekeza ndi kugwira ntchito ndi chilengedwe monga momwe zilili, m'malo moyesera kulikulitsa. Maganizo amenewa ndi omwe adzakhazikitsenso nthawi ngati Baja akupitirizabe kusintha monga alendo odzadziwika.