Malo Odyera Le Grand Colbert: Kuthamanga Kwambiri ku 1900 ku Paris

Mzindawu uli pamphepete mwa msewu wina wazaka zapamwamba kwambiri wa Paris, Le Grand Colbert ndi chikhalidwe chamakono cha ku France cha 1900 - koma mbiri yake imabwerera mmbuyo kuposa momwemo.

Oyendera alendo ndi anthu am'deralo akubwera chakudya chamasana kapena kudya osati chakudya chokhazikika, choyenera, komanso - ngati sichikutero - chifukwa cha chipinda chodyera chabwino. Ndizijambula zozungulira, zithunzi zobiriwira, zobiriwira komanso zitsulo zamatabwa, malo odyera amaoneka ngati akugwiritsidwa ntchito kale ku Belle-Epoque Paris, ndipo izi ndizobwino kwambiri.

Pali ngakhale chinthu chodabwitsa, chodabwitsa kwambiri chimene munthu akudyeramo odyera - Jean-Baptiste Colbert, mtumiki wa Mfumu Louis XIV - kutuluka kuchokera kumalo ena a zikopa.

Malo osungirako maso a miyala yamtengo wapatali omwe amachititsa kuti malo omwe ali pafupi ndi Galerie Vivienne akugwirizana, komanso chifukwa chabwino: asanayambe kudyera kumapeto kwa zaka za m'ma 1900, Colbert anali yekha , yomangidwa mu 1825 ndi womenyana ndi Vivienne. Lamulo lalitalili linapatsidwa ulemu wotchulidwa kuti malo a malo a Parisian m'zaka zaposachedwa.

Pokhala olimba, okongola kwambiri a French brasserie fare ndi mbale zazikulu zazikulu zam'madzi, Le Grand Colbert ndi chisankho chabwino kwa alendo omwe akufuna kuti azidya chakudya mu malo ooneka bwino a ku Paris. Si nyenyezi yamtundu wa Michelin, koma izi zimadza ndi ubwino umodzi wowoneka: malo ogulitsira amapezeka alendo pamadongosolo ochepa.

Amagawana ndi makhalidwe awa ndi zina zamakono za Paris monga Gallopin yapafupi (onani ndemanga yathu yonse apa) . Pamene mukuyang'ana zinthu zamtengo wapatali komanso mwambo koma simungakwanitse kugula ndi zochitika, midzi yodyera mumzindawu ndi yabwino kwambiri.

Ambiance

Kufika pa Colbert, chinthu choyamba chomwe mungazindikire ndichachikulu - chiwonetsero chomwe chilimbikitsidwa ndi makoma omwe atchulidwa pamwambapa.

Kuwala kwapamwamba, kuwala kofewa kofewa, zojambula zamkati zazitali ndi zikopa zazikulu za zikopa zimakupangirani inu nthawi yomweyo; Paris ya boulevards ndi malo owonetsera masewera. Kuchokera ku Folies Bergère kupita ku Theatre de la Renaissance , awa ndiwo malo owonetsera ndi cabarets makamaka okhudzana ndi anthu ogwira ntchito; iwo amaimira nthawi yatsopano yatsopano yamakono mumzindawu. Pali chinthu china chosafuna kuganizira za nthawi yomweyi, ngati mukuyendayenda m'mabwalo ambiri a m'maderawo komanso mukugulitsanso masitolo ake, kapena momwe mungakhalire pano, mukudyera mu malo ena odyera.

Colbert ndi yabwino kwa okaona mbali chifukwa vibe pano ndi yokongola koma osati mopambanitsa-zokondweretsa. Chakudya chamasana chimakhala chotheka monga kukondwerera mwambo wapadera wodyera, kuvala mosamala kwawonetsero kuwonesi yakutali kumbuyo kapena pambuyo pake.

Mapulogalamuwa amakhala okoma mtima ndipo amakhala okonzeka kukwaniritsa zopempha zomwe zili ku Paris kwina angakumane ndi zitsulo zong'onoting'ono-kwezani (kusinthira mbale ku zosowa zanu, kapena kuyendetsa makwerero kwa ana aang'ono patebulo). Izi zimapangitsa alendo kukhala okongola kwambiri omwe angakhale oopsezedwa ndi malo omwe sali kumvetsetsa zosowa zawo ndi zopempha zawo.

Menyu ndi Zosowa

Mwini wamakono Joël Fleury ndi mtsogoleri wake amapereka mwayi wokondweretsa - osati makamaka - zosankha zomwe zili ndi zilembo za ku France, kuchokera ku blanquette de veau (makamaka ku Gallic veal dish) kupita ku French-style nthiti steak ankagwira ndi odulidwa-wokazinga.

Zosankha za mapaipi ndi Sole Meunière ndi mbatata zowonongeka, bakha amalumikizana ndi mbatata za garlicky ndi saladi, zamasamba "gratin", ndi nyama ya tartare. Pakalipano, zipolopolo zazikuluzikulu zimatha kukhala oyster, lobster, shrimp, mussels, nkhanu, kapena zonse zomwe zili pamwambapa, ndipo zimakhala zabwino kwambiri ndi galasi la vinyo woyera wouma, monga Pouilly-Fuissé kapena Chardonnay.

Koma manambala amtengo wapatali, operekedwa pamtengo womwewo kaya chakudya chamasana kapena chakudya chamadzulo, akhoza kukhala bet bet, makamaka pa bajeti yochepa. Yesani "Menyu Grand Colbert", yomwe imaphatikizapo mbale ziwiri (kuyambira ndi mbale yaikulu kapena mbale yaikulu ndi mchere) kwa ma Euro 30, kapena mbale zitatu za ma Euro 40.

Vinyo ndi zakumwa sizinaphatikizidwe. ( Chonde dziwani kuti izi ndi mitengo ina yomwe yatchulidwa m'nkhaniyi inali yolondola panthawi yomwe inalembedwa, koma ingasinthe nthawi iliyonse).

Zosankha zoyambira zimaphatikizapo tchizi la mbuzi yotentha pa mesclun saladi (yogulitsa masamba), anyezi a gratin, oyiti asanu ndi limodzi, kapena saladi ya lentilo.

Zakudya zazikulu zoyesayesa zimakhala ndi kansalu kosakanizidwa ka salimoni ndi mphodza, zomwe zimakhala zokometsera zokoma komanso zokondweretsa kwambiri, ndi zolembera za cilantro. Zosankha zina zimaphatikizapo ng'ombe yophika kwa maola asanu ndi awiri ndipo imakhala ndi mbatata yosenda; Nkhumba za m'mawere zimakhala ndi mbatata ndi saladi, ndi nsomba (nsomba) ndi capers ndi mbatata zowonongeka. Palibe mtundu wa zamasamba tsopano womwe uli pamndandanda, koma zingakhale zoyenera kuupempha.

Palinso zakudya za mwana (zosakwana 20 Euro) zomwe zimaphatikizapo steak kapena nsomba ndi mbatata yosenda, madzi ndi madzi okoma, ndi ayisikilimu a mchere.

Dessert

Kwa mchere, "cafe gourmand" imalimbikitsidwa kwambiri: ndi mchitidwe wa chikhalidwe cha French odyera mmawonekedwe ochepa, kuchokera ku macarons kupita ku Paris-Brest kumalo odyera odzaza ndi kirimu, kutulutsa timadzi tambirimbiri, tonse timagwiritsa ntchito espresso yamphamvu. Zofufumitsa zonse zomwe zimaphatikizidwira mumadyerero okondedwa awa omwe amadya zakudya zamakono ndi zokoma.

Zosankha zina za mchere zimaphatikizapo Baba au rhum, keke ya yisiti yodzaza ndi ramu ndidzaza ndi kirimu; chokoleti chosakaniza (chotentha), phokoso lofiira la zipatso zofiira (kuwala, kasupe katsopano), ndipo pambali pa mapepala ambiri a French.

Kumwa

Menyu yodyeramo zakumwa zonse zimaphatikizapo vinyo wa ku France ndi wamayiko osiyanasiyana kuchokera ku zoyera kupita ku zofiira, champagne, cocktails, aperitifs ndi digestifs (pambuyo-zakudya zakumwa). Chokoleti yotentha ndi tiyi amadziwikanso kuti ndi zabwino, ndipo amatumizidwa makamaka madzulo.

Le Grand Colbert si malo oyeretsera zakudya zowonjezera za Paris - koma chifukwa cha zosangalatsa, zochitika zambiri zomwe zimamveka ngati nthawi kubwerera ku Belle Epoque, ndi bwino kusankha chakudya chamasana kapena chakudya chamadzulo. Mtengo uli wabwino kwambiri, ndipo umapezeka makamaka ngati mukukonzekera mndandanda wamtengo wapatali. Zakudya zowonjezera ndi zabwino kwambiri, ndipo ntchitoyo imakhala yokhazikika. Malo odyerawa ayenera kukhala pa radar ngati mukufuna tsiku kuti mufufuze m'mabuku akale a Grand Boulevards, kugula ndi kujambula zithunzi za photogenic zotsekedwa.

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